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Czarny karnawał. Moda przed wybuchem powstania styczniowego

Justyna Jaworska

Mourning Fashion before January Uprising

In 1861 there was no carnival in Warsaw. People used to think about widows who lost their husbands in the January Uprising; meanwhile wearing black dresses became widespread already prior to the uprising – it was a kind of collective performative action, great manifestation and provocation which revealed subversive nature of fashion itself. For a few seasons colours disappeared from women’s clothing, but even the patriotic simplicity was carefully stylized. Guised mourning added to the ambiguity of the game played with the invader. The interesting thing to see is how in the Victorian context and in the context of understanding fashion as a system of symbols, the Grottger images of “a black dress” are gaining a new significance.